Artificial Grass Installation Guide: How to Install Artificial Turf

It’s understandable that you don’t want to hire a professional to install your artificial turf. Truth is, it’s an awesome feeling to accomplish something on your own. We’re here to guide you every step of the way, and we believe in you!

 

Follow our guide on how to install artificial grass yourself for a perfect finish without the heavy cost. This is the cheapest way to lay artificial grass. You don’t need to contact artificial turf installation companies because there is an easy way to install artificial grass. Just stick to our turf installation process, and you’ll have an awesome artificial lawn in no time.

 

This is MegaGrass’ guide on how to install artificial grass on dirt/soil surfaces.

 

How to Install Artificial Grass on Dirt/Soil Surfaces: Pre-Process Steps

Step 1: Pre-installation

STEP ONE: Pre-Installation

 

1. Check for underground hazards

 

Water pipes and electric lines may be found under the surface of your desired installation area. Cover sprinklers at the pipe level or remove them if you don’t need them anymore. Add required drainage pipes for easy water clear out. Mark the location of unused sprinklers to avoid uneven surfaces.

 

Protect your electric wires by moving them away from the perimeter by six to eight inches. Keep them out of the way so they won’t be damaged when you secure the turf’ edges. Lay them on the top of the subgrade (crushed rock) surface with u-nails later on.

 

Step 2: Prepare the area 

STEP TWO: Prepare the Area

 

Ground preparation before installing the base material for artificial turf for soil/dirt surfaces

 

1. Get rid of weeds

 

The first thing you do before installing your grass is killing grassroots and weeds. 

 

Spray the area with a non-toxic weed killer you trust. Do this at least two weeks before your desired installation date. Weed killers need ample time to work. Thoroughly fill your place with weed killers to make sure there’ll be no sign of life on your lawn.

 

2. Remove the top layer of your soil

 

To make room for your new base, dig the top by three to four inches. Then walk over the area or use a hand tamp to apply pressure to loose soil.

 

3. Plan your drainage

 

If you’re installing artificial grass atop well-draining soil, you’ll have little to no problems. This is because synthetic grass drains great. If on top of poorly draining soil, install an efficient drainage system. If your location experiences very light rain, drainage gaps every six inches around the perimeter should be enough.

 

4. Install a bender board

 

Map out the perimeter so you have a clean line to separate your turf area from the other components in your lawn. Fence it as a guide so your turf won’t crawl out its designated space.

 

5. Optional: Install a gopher wire

 

Roll your gopher wire out on the installation area little by little. Secure the laid parts by putting u-shaped staples on every few feet so it doesn’t move over time. After fully unrolling, use a wire cutter to trim it down to size.

 

6. Optional: Install a weed barrier

 

Layout a geotextile layer at the bottom of the dug-up area. Before the artificial grass base material.

 

Step 3: Lay your base 

STEp THREE: Lay your base

 

1. Put in your sub-base material 

 

Using a wheelbarrow or shovel, scatter your base material. Generally, in places with a mild climate, you can use type 1 stone, gravel, crushed rock, decomposed granite, or any stones or rocks smaller than 3/8 inches as a base. Around 3-4 inches of the base material is needed to improve drainage and avoid slumping. The best sub-base for artificial grass is one that can absorb surface water fast.

 

2. Add sharp sand

 

Use a shovel or sand spreader to lay sharp sand 10-15mm thick on the top of your sub-base for it to be firm.

 

3. Water the whole area

 

Use your hose and sprinkle your space with water. Be sure not to overwater your sub-base because your base can get washed away.

 

4. Compact your stones

 

Use a plate compactor or plate tamper to compact the surface with. For areas with obstructions like trees, use a hand tamper. Or you can lay down a 2x4 plank of wood on the stones and hammer down.

 

Ideally, the base should be reduced to around 90% of its original depth, it should feel like concrete but retain its ability to drain. Pass back and forth with the compactor or tamper in overlapping directions for best compaction results.

 

If you have the budget, you can rent or buy a vibratory plate compactor—the most effective and time-saving option. A hand tamps can also be used at an affordable price.

 

5. Level the entire place

 

Double check your area for high and low spots, fill or flatten if uneven. Add additional base if needed. Take down high areas with the rake, add base material for low spots.

 

Step 4: Attach your artificial grass 

STEP FOUR: Attach your Artificial Grass

 

1. Plan the placing

 

Note the measurements of your area and compare it to your grass. Make it so that all the blades are facing the same direction so they will look more natural. Mark your spaces for easy reference. Use spray paint or chalk and write on the surface so you don’t forget that it’s the space for a certain cut.

 

Pro Tip: Draw lines for borders on your surface. This will serve as a guide for laying your seam fabric later on.

 

2. Roll your turf outside 

 

On an even surface (preferably not the one you will install it, so you won’t step on it) check your notes and your grass. When you roll your grass out to the desired measurement, mark it by cutting four (4) inches from the edge towards the center.

 

Pro Tip: Leave at least 1” allowance to be safe against miscalculations.

 

3. Roll your turf back in 

 

Roll your turf back and stop when your marked cuts are at the top of the roll. Cut along your marks to get your custom slice. Take the cut portion to your installation place.

 

Pro Tip: Use a chalk line (rope grazed with chalk) to mark your roll from end to end for a more even cut.

 

4. Roll turf out on installation surface

 

Roll out your synthetic grass over the installation area. Hold the edges and shake lightly so air can get under it, over the compacted stones. Don’t drag the grass over the base or you might ruin the smooth surface.

 

5. Optional: Use a carpet stretcher or a carpet kicker

 

A carpet stretcher can stretch the strips of turf shortly before you fasten or seam them. Stretching the turf using this tool eliminates wrinkles, reduces expansion brought about by heat, and helps secure the surface tighter to the ground.

 

6. Seam your turf pieces together

 

Set your second mat as close as you can to the one already laid. With small sections at a time, but their sides together like seaming two pieces of fabric. It should look like a tent that meets in the middle. Gaps should be kept within 1/8 of an inch to be unnoticeable. Cut off excess from the newly laid side if it overlaps with the one already fixed.

 

7. Lay your seam tape out

 

Ask for from two people when seaming patches of turf. Cut seam tape as long as your turf’s edges. Place it underneath the part where the sides meet. Keep them in place with 6-inch nails. One for each corner. Lift up the sides of your turf and ask your assistants to hold them. Pour in some glue and spread evenly through the entire tape.

 

8. Stitch 

 

Starting from the farther end, butt seams together little by little, with your assistants only releasing portions you need. Make sure that the turf doesn’t meet ahead of you laying it down and that their fibers are away from the glue up until the end.

 

9. Apply pressure 

 

A step above the sides of your newly seamed areas to make sure it sticks to the seam tape. You can also throw in some heavy objects over the seam.

 

10. Spike to keep the turf in place 

 

Hammer nails into the ground every few inches. Remember not to trap any grass fibers underneath the nail’s head. Secure the turf perimeter. Use landscaping anchor pins or 4 – 6 inches galvanized stakes to fasten the turf in place. Place them just around the perimeter at around 6 – 8-inch intervals. And also along the seam. Although you need to hammer them flat, you should be extra careful and avoid excessive hammering because it can cause dips in your lawn.

 

Artificial Grass Installation Post-process Steps:

Post Process Steps

 

1. Trim down any unwanted grass

 

Trim the excess artificial turf at least by 2 – 3 stitch rows out. The edges of the grass patch are the weakest parts of the turf. To avoid the edges of your artificial grass caving to either side, eliminate the problem early. Cut it off! You can use a utility knife or a carpet cutter to cut the underside of the turf.

 

2. Optional: for obstructed areas

 

If you have objects and obstructions in your space, cut your synthetic grass around it. For easier spotting, lean it against the obstacle and fold it back. Estimate where to start your relief cuts by marking from the base going up. Continue until the obstruction’s base is covered by turf.

 

If there are trees or posts, make big relief cuts for the synthetic grass to bend across.

 

When installing artificial turf around trees and other obstructions, the goal is to have relief cut touch the back of the tree/obstruction.

 

When cutting in the shape of a patio, fold back portions piece by piece and cut towards the center from the edge.

 

When cutting around sidewalks, patios, and surfaces almost in its level, pull back on the cut part while slicing so you can see what you’re cutting.

 

Relief cuts should be close enough to still allow the turf to lay flat while the flaps can still go up the objects. For long cuts, cut short distances at a time and repeatedly compare the edges to make sure there are no visible gaps. Size the turf little by little so you don’t cut off more than necessary.

 

After all the relief cuts have been made, cut off the patches piece by piece.

 

3. Final grooming

 

Brush your fake grass upwards to let infill inside. (If you’re using a power broom, you don’t need to brush first before dumping the infill.) Make sure your grass is completely dry before adding the infill.

 

Using a shovel, lay sand down in back dragging motion. Take a step backward while lowering the sand. Apply the first half evenly (about 1.25 lbs per square foot of turf on the first lay) everywhere before starting on the second wave to complete your infill. You can also use a sand spreader for this step.

 

Broom or brush the turf until the sand sinks completely below the grass. Check for highs and lows, brush out the highs and add more infill to the lows.

 

Brush your lawn again one last time and remove any sand left behind. Optional: use a leaf blower.

 

Set the infill by watering the lawn. Check the next day if you like the final result. If it’s not bouncy enough for you, or the grass blades are too exposed, add another infill layer and rake. Optional: Use a leaf blower again to clear out debris.

 

Make additional touches  

 

Add life to your lawn by planting flowers or herbs in pots and placing them on top your artificial grass. You can also have a picnic table just outside your house. The possibilities are endless!

 

How to install artificial grass on concrete?

We’ve got that covered, too!

 

For concrete surfaces:

 

Step 1: Prepare the area

Concrete Step One: Prepare the Area

 

1. Clean existing concrete 

 

During this step, hose your area thoroughly. Check to see if there are puddles that form. If there are, drill drainage holes. Use a 16mm bit for drilling holes and fill them with 10mm shingle to prevent puddles when it rains.

 

Check uneven surfaces. If they aren’t too uneven and can be fixed, use the self-leveling compound. Follow the instructions on the packaging.

 

2. Install free drainage foam/shock pad  

 

Cover your entire area with foam/shock pads. Because concrete is a hard surface, you’ll need the foam/shock pads for support in case anyone falls on the surface. If there are different sections of foam or shock pads (as opposed to a whole roll) tape them together with masking tape. Lift it to one side so you can easily spread the glue.

 

Mix the glue and hardener. Apply it directly to your surface and scatter. Use about 2-3mm of glue to make sure everything sticks. Work quickly because the glue hardens fast.

 

Step 2: Lay your grass 

Concrete Step Two: Lay your Grass

 

1. Measure your turf  

 

Roll out your artificial grass over the foam. Cut it to size using a turf cutter or knife.

 

2. Optional: if one roll is not enough 

 

Measure your artificial turf patches.

 

Seam your turf pieces together.

 

Set your mats as close as you can together. With small sections at a time, place their sides together like seaming two pieces of fabric. It should look like a tent that meets in the middle. Gaps should be kept within 1/8 of an inch to be unnoticeable. Cut off excess from the newly laid side if it overlaps with the one already fixed.

 

Lay your seam tape out.

 

Stitch.

 

Starting from the farther end, tent seams together little by little, with your assistants only releasing portions you need. Make sure that the turf doesn’t meet ahead of you laying it down and that their fibers are away from the glue up until the end.

 

Apply pressure.

 

A step above the sides of your newly seamed areas to make sure it sticks to the seam tape.

 

3. Apply artificial grass glue to the perimeter

 

Secure your newly installed artificial lawn by applying glue on all the edges. Make sure there are no gaps when you glue. Leave it alone to dry.

 

Step 3: Final grooming

Concrete Step Three: Final Grooming

 

Brush your fake grass upwards to let infill inside. (If you’re using a power broom, you don’t need to brush first before dumping the infill.) Make sure your grass is completely dry before adding the infill.

 

Using a shovel, lay sand down in back dragging motion. Take a step backward while lowering the sand. Apply the first half evenly (about 1.25 lbs per square foot of turf on the first lay) all over before starting on the second wave to complete your infill. You can also use a sand spreader for this step.

 

Broom or brush the turf until the sand sinks completely below the grass. Check for highs and lows, brush out the highs and add more infill to the lows.

 

Brush your lawn again one last time and remove any sand left behind. Optional: use a leaf blower.

 

Set the infill by watering the lawn. Check on the next day if you like the final result. If it’s not bouncy enough for you, or the grass blades are too exposed, add another infill layer and rake. Optional: Use a leaf blower again to clear out debris.

 

Who said easy artificial grass installation wasn’t possible? No need to look for artificial turf installation near me. Or pet turf installation near me anymore, if you can do it by yourself! Looking for more information? Check out our guide on how to install artificial grass

 

For high-quality artificial turf, choose MegaGrass. We’ve got you and your lawn covered!

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